Southwest National Parks, Part III: Antelope Canyon and Horseshoe Bend

The drive from Grand Canyon to Page was much longer than expected, because we had to re-route South through Flagstaff due to the snow. But everything around us was covered in snow for almost the whole ride, until suddenly all the snow was gone. And then we were in Page, Arizona, where it was a sunny 60 degrees! We grabbed a quick lunch at the hotel and then headed out for our tour of Antelope Canyon.

Antelope had been on my bucket list for several years, ever since I saw the hauntingly beautiful pictures a friend showed me. I couldn't wait for us to experience it ourselves. It's on a Navajo reservation, so you can only visit the canyon with one of their guides. We pulled into the parking lot, and I couldn't see anywhere the canyon could be; we were in a flat part of the valley. I assumed they must be bussing us to the canyon.

We joined our tour group and met our guide, who said, "Okay, follow me!" and started walking behind the building. To our surprise, we came up to steps and a ladder, and I realized that the canyon was actually underground. 

Antelope Canyon is a slot canyon, which means it is a long, narrow, winding slit that's been carved into the ground over thousands of years of flash floods. You absolutely can't tell it's there at all from the ground level! From the top, it just looked like a rocky piece of land, with no indication that an incredible space exists under your feet, where floodwaters have scooped and carved the most fabulous, otherworldly shapes and curves out of the sandstone.

Our tour guide was Navajo, and explained that Antelope Canyon is considered sacred by the Navajo tribe. They believe it was created by the Holy People as a place where the spirit world and the human world can interact. He also told us some tidbits about the Navajo tribe, and what it was like to grow up on the reservation.

We were in awe as we walked through. There were some places so narrow that we had to turn sideways or climb over boulders. The colors were incredible: mostly yellows and oranges, but even some purples in the shadows. We could have stayed in there all day. The kids took turns with both my Canon camera and my phone camera, and many of these pictures were taken by them. 

We especially enjoyed some of the specific shapes, like The Lady in the Wind (Little Man: "I can't believe nature made that!") and the seahorse (which was a little more abstract).

Back in the hotel later, the kids told me that Antelope Canyon was the best thing they'd seen so far on the trip. High praise! But unfortunately, Sweet Pea started feeling sick. I assumed she'd caught whatever had bothered Little Man back in Vegas, and assured her she'd be feeling better by the next day. We got takeout and ate dinner in the room because she didn't want to be alone.

We had a relaxing next morning, taking our time as we packed up and headed out of Page. We stopped by Horseshoe Bend, the famous hairpin turn the Colorado River takes as it doubles back on itself in an "entrenched meander." Since we were there in the morning, part of the bend was in shadows, but we still appreciated the view. The walk there was just enough for the kids to let off some steam, stretch out their legs, and climb on the huge boulders.

Fun fact: geologists believe that the Colorado River will eventually break through the narrow peninsula of ground, creating a natural bridge. 

While we walked to Horseshoe Bend, I did a quick Google search to learn some interesting facts. I read the kids the story of the Battle of Horseshoe Bend, fought between the US military and the Creek Indians in 1814. The Indians made a heroic stand on the peninsula of the bend before ultimately being defeated, which ended Native American hostilities in the area. Sean was particularly interested in the details of the battle, and he and I spent quite a bit of time pointing out where the Indians had set up their defense, what their strategy was, where the US soldiers had stolen their canoes, etc. Learning about this battle made our visit to Horseshoe Bend more interesting, and it's a big part of my memories of that morning.

But when I mentioned it to my parents after we returned home, my dad looked it up. Turns out the entire story I'd researched was the Battle of Horseshoe Bend, Alabama. Nowhere near Arizona! It never crossed my mind that there were two Horseshoe Bends!

But at the time we were blissfully unaware, and headed to our next stop: Bryce Canyon.